Semi-bespoke or bench-made?

When you’re comparing suits, it’s reasonable to ask what you’re getting for the difference in price. The cloth matters, of course. But so does the work that goes into turning it into something you’ll wear.

At The London Bespoke Club, we offer two levels of bespoke construction: semi-bespoke and bench-made bespoke. Both start with a pattern made for you. The difference is in how we make the garment, how much of it is worked by hand and the time we spend fitting it.

First, a word about made-to-measure

Made-to-measure generally starts with an existing pattern that is adjusted for the person ordering it. The scope for changes varies from one maker to another, so it’s worth asking what can be changed rather than judging by the label alone.

Our semi-bespoke suits start with a unique pattern. The process is modelled on our bench-made work, with allowance for your style details, fit requirements, posture and body adjustments. We use a more efficient way of making the suit, with far less handwork. We don’t replace that individual pattern with a standard block.

The two, side by side

Here is what each involves, from the first pattern to the finished suit.

What semi-bespoke gives you

For most of our clients, semi-bespoke is the way to go. You have a suit made around you, with a shorter wait and a lower starting price. You can discuss the shape of the lapel, the way the jacket sits through the waist, the rise of the trousers and the other details you have in mind. Fit and posture are part of that conversation too.

The saving comes from the making. Working in a production environment allows specialist tailors to move the garment through construction more efficiently. Machines do much of the work inside; handwork is used where required and on visible finishing details. That is how we make the process quicker without giving up the individual pattern.

Most of the major fitting adjustments happen at the basted fitting, around week four. The suit is temporarily stitched together so we can see it on you and work through changes before it is finished. We want to know how it feels when you sit, move your arms and stand as you normally would.

If the finished garment needs any final tweaks, they are usually minor. We can generally take care of those in three to four days, ready for your final pickup.

What changes at the bench

With our bench line, our in-house cutter and tailor, Ian MacMillan, takes your suit from the paper pattern through to the finished garment. He cuts it, works on the internal construction and carries the decisions made during your fittings back to the bench.

Much of that work will eventually be covered by cloth, lining and facing. The canvas and other internal components are cut, shaped and attached by hand. Those are hours of work you won’t see by looking at the outside of the finished jacket, but they are part of how its shape is built.

There are four to five fittings, with time between them for Ian to work on your garment. We note the adjustments at every fitting and carry each change back to your unique pattern. By the time your suit is finished, that pattern reflects what we’ve learned along the way. Future garments can be made more quickly because we already have that work to build on.

If you’re interested in the making itself, you can follow your suit as it develops and talk through the decisions with Ian. For your first bench-made suit, we ask you to allow four to five months.

Which would I suggest?

I’d start with how often you’ll wear the suit, when you need it and what you’re comfortable spending. If you’re building a working wardrobe, semi-bespoke leaves more room in the budget for another useful suit or the shirts to wear with it. The individual pattern and the fittings are still there.

If you want Ian to make the whole garment here, enjoy the handwork and have the time for the additional fittings, bench-made is worth considering. You’re paying for his time at the cutting table and bench, as well as the time with you in the fitting room.

A dropped shoulder or a particular fit concern doesn’t automatically mean you need the more expensive option. Bring it up. Both processes allow for posture and body adjustments, and we can talk through what your garment needs when we see you.

You can decide when you come in

You don’t need to choose a level of construction before booking. Come with an idea of what the suit is for, your timing and your budget. If possible, bring a jacket you enjoy wearing. If you don’t have one, a few thoughts about how you like your clothes to fit are just as useful.

We’ll look at cloth and construction together and explain what each option would involve for you. Consultations at our Toronto atelier are complimentary and strictly by appointment.