Custom shoes. Start with the fit.

Before we look at leather colours, I’d like to know which shoes you enjoy wearing and which ones spend most of their time in the box. A pair can look wonderful and still be the wrong choice for the way you dress or spend your day.

Are these for work, a wedding or something to wear with jeans at the weekend? Do your current shoes fit comfortably, or are you always compromising somewhere? These are the questions we ask you at the atelier so we can suggest the best pair and construction method for you. You don’t have to choose bespoke simply because you want a particular colour or finish.

What are you choosing between?

At The London Bespoke Club, we offer made-to-order and bench-made bespoke shoes. Both let you choose the style, leather, sole and finish. The important difference is the last: the shaped form a shoe is built around. Made-to-order uses an existing one; bespoke gives you one made for your feet.

When made-to-order makes sense

If an existing last and size suit your feet, made-to-order gives you plenty to work with. You can choose a familiar style and change the leather, colour, sole and finish. That might be a dark brown lace-up for work, a suede loafer or a patent shoe to go with a tuxedo.

We use a 3D foot scan at the atelier to help select the stock size. It gives us information to work with, but it doesn’t create an individual last. I want that distinction to be clear before you order.

Timing matters too. If you have less than seven weeks, made-to-order is the best option to consider. Tell us the date you need them for, and we’ll confirm whether we can meet it before you order.

You can explore the options in our shoe designer before coming in. Save a combination you like, even if you’re unsure about part of it. We can look at the materials together and talk through what will work with your clothes.

What bespoke adds

With bench-made bespoke, we take eight measurements and drawings of each foot for our shoemaker. These become the starting point for your personal last. A fitting shoe is then made so we can check how it feels before the finished pair is built.

This is the part to take your time with. Walk in the fitting shoes and tell us where you feel pressure, where your heel moves or where you’d like more room. A description in your own words is useful; you don’t need to know the shoemaking terms.

If stock sizes have been difficult for you, we can discuss whether this approach makes sense. I wouldn’t promise comfort from a label alone. The measurements, fitting shoe and your feedback are how we work towards it.

The finished shoes are made by hand and hand welted. Your last is kept for future pairs, and a custom lasted shoe tree is included to support the shape between wears.

Drawing the pattern on a client’s last

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Choose the pair you’ll have a use for

I wouldn’t give everyone the same list of three shoes to buy. If you rarely wear a suit, another formal lace-up may be less useful than the loafers you can wear with your usual trousers. If you’re commissioning for a wedding, bring a photograph or cloth sample from the outfit so we can consider them together.

The navy suede loafers at the top of this article are shown with light-coloured trousers. That is a good way to judge a shoe: as part of an outfit, with the trouser length and shape in view. Bring the socks you expect to wear as well; a thin dress sock and a heavier one can feel quite different inside the same shoe.

Tell us how much walking you’ll do and where. We can discuss the available soles and whether a sole protector is worth considering. For a Toronto winter, I’d still plan on suitable outdoor footwear for snow and slush, then change when you arrive. A beautifully made dress shoe needs looking after too.

A few examples from our bespoke shoemaker

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How much colour do you want?

The brown boots below show what a hand-painted patina can do. Colour is built up in layers, giving the leather variation from light to dark. This finish is available on both our made-to-order and bespoke shoes.

It can be a lovely choice if you enjoy that depth of colour. But you don’t have to make the finish dramatic because you can. For a pair you’ll wear often, I’d put the leather beside your usual trousers and decide how much contrast you want. A quieter finish can be just as satisfying to own.

Looking after them from the start

Ask about care when you choose the material. Smooth leather, suede and a hand-painted finish need the right products and a suitable routine. It’s much easier to get that advice at the start than to try to undo a mark left by the wrong cleaner.

Use well-fitting shoe trees to support the shape between wears, and give damp shoes time to dry naturally, away from a radiator or heater. Having another pair to wear gives you time to let them dry properly.

Both our shoe options use welted construction, which allows the soles to be replaced. Ask about repair before the soles or heels are badly worn. What can be done depends on the condition of the pair; good construction is a reason to look after them, rather than a promise that they’ll last forever.

For your shoe appointment

Bring a pair you like wearing, the socks you’ll use and any ideas you’ve saved. Tell us what you’d like to spend and whether there’s a date the shoes need to be ready for. If you’re ordering them with a suit or tuxedo, we’ll plan the timing together.

You can compare the materials and discuss both options at our Toronto atelier. Consultations are complimentary and strictly by appointment. We’ll help you work out which approach suits your feet, your wardrobe and your budget.