Business suits. Worn often, kept for years.

There’s a good reason you keep reaching for the same suit. You know how it feels, which shirt goes with it and that you’ll be comfortable by the end of the day. That is what I want a business suit to become: something you enjoy wearing often enough to get your money’s worth.

The trouble comes when that favourite does all the work while the others stay on their hangers. Before you buy another, have a look at why. Is the next suit too warm? Are the trousers uncomfortable? Or did you buy a cloth you loved in the book but rarely want to wear to work? That tells us more than a list of this year’s trends.

Give your favourite a day off

I wouldn’t prescribe the same number of suits to everyone. If you wear one twice a month, your needs are quite different from someone who wears one Monday to Friday. For regular wear, I’d put the next purchase towards another suit you’ll use just as readily as the first.

It doesn’t have to be dramatically different. If navy works for you, another navy in a different shade or a quiet pattern can be a perfectly sensible choice. You’re giving yourself something to wear while the other suit rests or is away being cleaned. There’s no prize for owning five different colours if you only like wearing one.

Think about where the wear happens, too. If you spend most of the day with your jacket off, a second pair of matching trousers may be worth discussing when we make the suit. Alternate them from the start rather than keeping one pair untouched until the first is worn out.

Be honest about how hard you’ll wear it

When we look at cloth, tell me if this is going to be your twice-a-week suit. I’d choose with that in mind. A particularly delicate cloth might be lovely for an occasional dinner jacket and less suited to the suit you wear through a long commute and a full day at work.

Ask us which options we’d suggest for frequent wear, and why. We can compare the feel, weight and weave, and talk about creasing and care. The most expensive cloth in the book isn’t automatically the best use of your budget for this job.

If you already have a suit that has worn well, bring it along. If another wore out quickly, tell us where. Those are useful starting points for choosing the next one.

Change the shirt before changing the suit

A different shirt and tie can give a familiar suit another outing without making it feel like the same outfit. The pinstripe jacket at the top of this page is shown with a pale blue shirt and red tie. A white shirt and a darker tie would be another simple way to wear it.

If you usually leave your collar open, try it that way with the jacket on. Does the collar sit where you want it, or disappear underneath the lapels? Are you comfortable with how much of the shirt is open? We can work through that with the shirts you wear, rather than treating an open collar as an afterthought.

I wouldn’t expect every suit jacket to double as a casual jacket. The pinstripe here is one I’d generally keep with its matching trousers. If most of your week calls for a jacket with jeans or chinos, let’s consider a separate jacket for those days.

Keep the details you’ll still enjoy

The blue buttonhole on this pinstripe jacket adds a personal touch, but it isn’t for everyone. Lately, we’ve been suggesting that less is more for most clients. A contrast buttonhole can be too much for a conservative workplace, and it can make the suit more recognisable each time you wear it. For a suit you’ll reach for often, I’d usually keep the thread close to the cloth and let the cut do the work.

I’d give more thought to choices that change the whole garment: an unusually short jacket, very narrow trousers or a particularly striking lapel. If that’s how you’ve enjoyed dressing for years, tell me. If it’s an idea from a photograph you saw yesterday, take a little time with it.

You want to be comfortable wearing the suit long after the excitement of collecting it. Getting years of use from something you chose with your hard-earned money is a good feeling. That’s where the cost per wear starts to make sense.

Plan for the trip, including the journey

If you travel for work, tell us whether you’ll be wearing the suit in transit or packing it. A morning flight straight into meetings is different from arriving the night before with time to unpack.

I’d plan the shirts, ties and shoes around the suit before adding another outfit to the bag. Check the dress code for any evening plans too; a business suit won’t cover an invitation that calls for black tie.

When you arrive, unpack and hang the suit rather than leaving it folded until the morning. If you know you’ll need pressing, arrange it ahead of the meeting. A travel wardrobe is much easier when you’ve allowed time to look after it.

The small habits matter

After wearing a wool suit, empty the pockets, give it a gentle brush with a suitable garment brush and hang the jacket on a shaped hanger. Let it air, and give it a day’s rest between wears when you can. Woolmark recommends 24 hours to let wool recover its shape.

Follow the garment’s care instructions when it needs cleaning. Don’t assume advice for washing a wool sweater applies to a tailored jacket. If you’re unsure about a stain or pressing, ask before treating it yourself.

A loose button, a dropped hem or a lining beginning to give way is easier to deal with when you notice it. With a suit we’ve made for you, let us have a look. The same goes for a change in fit: we can assess what can be adjusted and tell you where the limits are.

Bring the suit you keep reaching for

If you’re thinking about another business suit, bring your favourite to the appointment. Tell us what you enjoy about it and what, if anything, you’d change. We can use that to work out what would earn its keep alongside it.

At The London Bespoke Club, consultations at our Toronto atelier are complimentary and strictly by appointment. We’ll talk through your working week, your budget and how much wear you expect from the suit, then look at the options together.